Lessons from the Inca Trail: Part Two – The Trek

In my last post I wrote mainly about our arrival to Machu Picchu. It was the culmination of our four-day trek along the Inca trail, a journey that was decidedly more exciting than just visiting the ruins. It offered amazing views, it passed lots of other Incan ruins, and for me, the over-thinker, it offered up a lot more life lessons!

Beautiful Views

The trek is 45km long, and follows what is largely the original trail that was used by pilgrims on their way to Machu Picchu. It was a sacred, ceremonial route more than anything. Meandering up and down various mountain passes, it enabled pilgrims to admire the mountains that surrounded them and to perform ceremonies and rituals to honour them.

The landscapes themselves are proof of why the Incans believed what they did. A mountain range of snow-capped peaks melts into the lush, green mountains of the rainforest – creating an impressive clash of sceneries. The peaks protrude powerfully around you as you walk, inspiring awe and reverence at their beauty.

However, like I mentioned in part one, we unfortunately did not have the best weather for a lot of the walk. There was a lot of fog, so we couldn’t always see the mountains around us, but when they did appear, they took our breath away. This leads to life lesson numero cinco, continued from part one:

Not all beauty is visible right away.

Walking along the path, unable to really see what was around us was, at times, a bit of a bummer. When it cleared though, and our surroundings were revealed, it was incredible to discover what had been there the whole time, hiding.

It made me think about how many things in life are just like that, particularly with getting to know people. It’s so easy to make quick judgments against those who do not conform to our notion of how one should live, or dress, or act, or believe, but this is a type of social fog. It blinds us from seeing the beauty that hides behind every person. If we just remain patient (remember lesson numero dos?), and wait for the fog of our ignorance to clear, we will often find a person’s essential beauty: something that had been there the whole time, just that we had not been able to see it. Let’s always keep our minds open, and look for the mountains beyond the fog!

Incredible Ruins

The other amazing thing about the trail is that you come across a lot of ruins that are incredible, but that have more novelty for being much less known than Machu Picchu. A lot of them are seemingly carved into the mountains, or perched atop high lookout points, accessible by steep stairs. There are full-blown temples, agricultural platforms, messenger stations, even just simple storage facilities. All are amazing, welcome surprises. As you turn a corner, bam! there they are, sitting patiently still after hundreds of years.

Here are some photos and descriptions of the ones that impacted me the most:


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These are the very first ruins we came across, on day one. Walking along, I noticed those who were ahead gathered at the edge of a cliff with Mario, our guide. Approaching to see what they were looking at, I was overwhelmed with how cool this was, appearing out of the blue! The site is called “Llactapata,” and was an agricultural town. Crops would be grown on the different levels – a farming style found at Machu Picchu as well.

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These ruins were right nearby, overlooking the ones above. They served as a watchtower to look over the town below. It is called “Willcarakay.” Our group excitedly explored the ruins, overwhelmed by the awesomeness of having these ruins all to ourselves, and the beauty of the scenery all around.

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These was the next big site we came across, on day three. Known as “Sayaqmarka,” the ruins are those of a well preserved Inca town. To access it, we needed to climb a set of steep stairs that looked over a cliff. While climbing, I hit my head on the wall while contemplating how easy it would be to fall off. Classic. Luckily, nobody actually fell off! We just explored and learned about the site from Mario.

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For example, he gave us a demonstration to show us how this rock wasn’t just a rock, but actually had an image on it! See it?

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After walking a bit more, and getting over the third and final mountain pass, we found this site at the bottom of a long set of stairs. Called “Phuyupatamarka,” it is a well-preserved site that has a long series of Inca baths. There were a few llamas grazing around the baths area, so that distracted us a bit from the site itself, but turning the corner to this view snapped us back to reality – it was immense!

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About an hour later, after walking through the rainforest on the beautiful winding stone path, the foliage cleared for a view of this incredible site, “Intipata.” I still remember the feeling of total awe that struck me, and how I yelled out in excitement. As I was just slightly ahead of my cousins and another group member, I turned to looked at them wide-eyed – you guys are going to love this painted across my face.

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Not only were the ruins incredible, but the fog cleared just in time for us to get this view, overlooking the Urubambu River.

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Carlos smiles after walking down the steep stairs of the site. Not only were these some of the coolest ruins we’d seen, but we also had a view of our campsite after about 15km of walking that day. Almost there!

Of course, the final ruins we saw were those of Machu Picchu. Like I mentioned in part one, they were spectacular. But as you can see from the photos above, the novelty of these lesser known, wilder, less commercialized ruins seen along the Inca trail were unbeatable. Bringing us to life lesson numero seis:

Getting off the beaten track has its benefits.

This is a bit ironic, since the whole point of the Inca trail trek is to walk the beaten track: one walked hundreds of years ago as a pilgrimage, and one walked today by 500 visitors per day, plus guides and porters. But even for the Incas, the trail was the lesser-travelled. There was a much easier, more straightforward route to the sacred city used for commercial and practical purposes. The Inca trail was strictly ceremonial, an intentional meandering path to honour the mountains. In the modern-day pilgrimage, while not ceremonial, it certainly feels more reflective than just taking the train. My cousins and I were so glad we decided to do the trail because we were able to see these awesome ruins and views that the majority of visitors to Machu Picchu are not able to appreciate.

Taking the path less travelled in anything – whether it’s taking a different route to work or school, or whether it’s making less common life choices – allows for a change of air. It offers time to reflect on yourself, and your place in the universe without getting swept away with the multitudes.

Altitude

One element that makes this trek especially challenging is the altitude. We had felt its effects in Cusco, which sits at 3400m. Each of us got a bit of a headache and got winded just walking up stairs in the city. We were thus a bit worried about the trek since the highest point on the climb was 4200m, significantly more than Cusco. And indeed, the altitude was a big factor of the challenge, particularly on day two.

The day consisted of walking just 11km, but was made extra difficult as we got higher and higher to that First Pass. It felt like we were walking in slow motion the whole time. We had to take frequent breaks just to catch some air. It was like walking with someone sitting on your chest! At one point, we were overjoyed to see the first pass; it looked like it was really close, that we were almost there. And it was close – but at that height, it took us over half an hour just to get there, climbing up the steep stairs, fighting against wind, rain, and even hail, not to mention our own lungs.

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Happy but FREEZING cousins at the first pass!

It made me think about life lesson numero siete:

Don’t take anything for granted.

Just like getting a paper cut makes you realize just how much you use your thumb, climbing at high altitude made us realize how hard it was to do something that normally comes so naturally. Just to breathe, to live, is an amazing gift. The way the world is made, the way that human bodies adapt to enable survival in different conditions is incredible. Who knows how many planets out there in the universe would allow us to do that – not many I’d bet. Shout out to the Earth for letting us humans chill here for the past 200,000 years! Let’s not take advantage of this beautiful place – just like us, it won’t be here forever. Let’s take care of it!

Porters 

The Inca trail hike is unique in that it is not possible to do it solo. To access the trail, you must join a guided group (we used the group Inca Point and I definitely recommend them if you’re interested).  Everything is well-organized: you do not have to set up camp, or cook, or clean at all – it is all taken care of by the group’s porters. You don’t even have to carry the tents, and if you hire an extra porter, they can carry up to 15kg of your own stuff for you.

This initially was odd for me – during previous hikes, I’d always done it all on my own, stuffing tent, food, sleeping bag, clothes, etc. into my bag, but I’ve got to say it was all pretty useful. At the high altitude, with the insane number of stairs – up and down – carrying everything without much experience would be a massive challenge. Unless you’re a porter, of course.

These guys never failed to impress. We’d be huffing and puffing getting up a set of stairs and they would breeze by, with 3x our load and wearing measly sandals or converse. The food as well, cooked by the chef, was incredible. Each meal was certainly better than anything I’d ever made while camping! These guys would also get up before us, and go to bed after us each day, and still manage to fly through the trail. Of course, many chew the coca leaf, a light stimulant, to help them through it.
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Two porters walking ahead of us near the beginning of the trek with their large loads.

They made me think about life lesson numero ocho:

Accept help. 

My initial reaction when finding out that you need to be with a group to hike the Inca trail was disappointing. I’ve always been pretty independent and I like a good challenge. Having a bunch of people carry my stuff for me just didn’t seem right. Not putting up my own tent or making my own food was an unwanted intrusion into my notion of adventure. But man, was I ever humbled.

My cousins and I had hired one extra porter to share between the three of us, and we still had somewhat heavy packs to carry ourselves. Without the extra help I’m not sure what we would have done! And if we had had to set up our own camp in the relentless rain of day two, I think everyone would have been pretty grumpy. The porters thus make the impossible possible, allowing relatively inexperienced hikers like me to enjoy the trek more comfortably.

This leaks into everyday life as well. I know I personally am not afraid to ask for help, but sometimes I think I can do more by myself than I actually can. I know that for lots of people it’s the same. But we are social creatures, and not meant to do it all on our own. Never hesitate to ask someone for help if you feel you need it!

A Parting Tale: The Cactus and the Pig

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Anyone who knows me knows that I love animals. You may even know that I love pigs and hope to have one as a pet one day. So when on day one, just about one hour into the trek, Elena told me there was a pig nearby our rest stop, I couldn’t help but run over to say hi and give it a pat. The poor thing seemed a bit distressed however and didn’t seem all too into the idea of visitors. It was tied to a post with a rope just a bit beyond my reach. I leaned in closer to see what was the matter, wondering if it was lack of water. As I decided that I’d better not bother it any longer, I felt a prickly sensation on my shoulder. Hence my final lesson learned from the Inca Trail:

 Cactus needles are hard to get out of your skin, and harder to get out of clothing. 

I had been leaning on a cactus the whole time! Thankfully I’d been wearing two layers underneath so most of the damage was done to my sweater, but I had a fair share of thorns in my shoulder as well. As people helped get them out of my back, I laughed at the silliness of it all. Mario emphatically suggested that I never ever wear the sweater again, that I throw it out, or even burn it. A bit dramatic, perhaps, but I certainly didn’t put it back on again that trip! I also carried around a pair of tweezers in my pocket for the rest of the trip for whenever I would find small thorns in my hands. I think they’re all gone now!

My sweater however is still sitting quarantined in a plastic bag under my bed awaiting de-cactusification! If anyone has any tips on how to remove them, do let me know! For now, I’m thinking tape? We’ll see.

Well that’s all for now about the Inca Trail! I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about it. If you’re thinking of doing it yourself and have questions, feel free to comment below or send me an email through the “Contact Me” button. Also remember to SUBSCRIBE to my posts if you’re interested! You can do so below by clicking “Notify me of new posts by email,” or by using the sidebar. 🙂

Thanks for reading, and happy Christmas preparations!

L

Lessons From the Inca Trail: Part One – Machu Picchu

Around 6:30 A.M. on the fourth and last day of the Inca Trail, the trekking group my cousins and I were with made it to Inti Punku, “Sun Gate” – the ruins of a guarded fortress of Machu Picchu that also served as a control gate for those who had come from Cusco. For modern-day trekkers, it offers the first glimpse of Machu Picchu after days of walking, and also a view of the sunrise if conditions are good. Note the if. Hiking in rainy season, we had taken our chances with the weather.

We had woken up at 3:30 in the morning to quickly pack up our bags and get out of our tents so that our group’s porters could pack up camp and head off walking to pick up their pay and get home. There was then about an hour’s wait ahead of us in line at the entry checkpoint to the last leg of the hike, waiting behind other groups until it opened at 5:30. We sat in the dark and watched the sky slowly get lighter. Some were chatty, loud, and excited but me personally not being a great morning-person, I was half-asleep and groggy, leaning on a wall huddled, trying to stay warm. When 5:30 hit though, and the groups started moving, excitement rose for our last stretch of walking to Machu Picchu.

The terrain to Inti Punku is easy compared to the earlier days’ walking, so we breezed through it, excited at what lay ahead. We even conquered the Matagringos – the “Gringo killer” stairs, which consisted of 50 steep steps, without much fuss. We really wanted to see Machu Picchu. Rushing through the gate of Inti Punku, we found other groups already gathered.

I quickly analyzed the ruins, thinking cool, but then realized the disappointment that was thick in the air; our beautiful view and first peek at Machu Picchu was covered with the densest, greyest fog we had seen the whole trip. Being a bit naïve of where I was, I questioned: “are we supposed to see Machu Picchu?” to the response of a group member, “Yup, you’re looking at it!” Oh.

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Somewhere beyond that fog lies Machu Picchu….

This is the point where I realized what I’ll call life lesson numero uno, one of many learned along the trail:

There is so much in life that is beyond our control, but how we react is crucial.

Disappointment was evident among visitors lingering around Inti Punku: we had paid a lot of money for the trek, we had walked so long, we had taken our chances with the rainy season and lost. But, there was also a clear attempt to overcome the disappointment. People took photos with the fog, ironic smiles and false excitement leading to genuine amusement. Our group joked that this was the best fog we had ever seen, that it had all the perfect shades of grey. We lingered at the ruins, buoyed by one guide’s affirmation that fog was volatile and could clear within minutes. Every hazy mountain peak we could catch a glimpse of gave us hope. We were disappointed, but accepted what was given to us and made it fun.

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Come on fog! Pleeeeease clear.

Our guide, Mario, finally told us to continue on; the fog just wasn’t showing signs of really clearing up. We continued walking down the switchbacks on the way to Machu Picchu. As we walked, the clouds indeed started to part – more and more became visible and we were giddy with excitement. Mario pointed out to us, off in the distance, “There it is Machu Picchu!” We screamed in joy, jumping to look at it and take pictures, even though really it was just a small spot on the camera lens. Which leads to life lesson numero dos, borrowed from The Karate Kid:

Patience, young grasshopper.  

Sometimes things will go your way eventually, all it takes is a bit of patience and perseverance. It is so easy to expect instant gratification these days with technology right at our fingertips, but there are still lots of things that only come with patience. Learning an instrument. Building relationships. Saving money for a car, or a house, or a trip. These things are no 3-minute spaghetti noodles, but when what you’re waiting for does work out, it’s incredibly rewarding.

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First peek at Machu Picchu – that little brown patch at the centre! (Perhaps it’s time for a better camera?)

Actually arriving at Machu Picchu was incredible – descending the path, we could see it in a misty haze getting closer and closer, until there it was – we were standing right in front of it. The famous mountain in the back of all the Machu Picchu pictures wasn’t yet visible, but the ruins were there, all lying quietly in front of us. It looked eerie in the fog, ancient and still. We spent almost an hour at that spot, taking pictures at every different angle possible and reveling at its immensity. The fog came and went, sometimes so thick we couldn’t see the ruins even though they were right there. During one foggy period, Elena saw her opportunity for a nap, never missing a chance for one when it arises!

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Eerie, beautiful Machu Picchu

After a group photo, we followed Mario to the official entrance of the ruins, where he would start giving us a tour of the site. It was amazing to walk among the ancient sacred city walls. We walked around various temples, the Sacred Plaza, the pyramid of Intiwuatana, the quarry, and other sites as Mario explained to us various facts about the construction, history, and functions of the site.

Built in the mid-1400s and only inhabited for a bit over 100 years, it was interesting to learn the world famous site lasted for so little, and was built relatively recently in history. A lot of the rocks are especially impressive for their size – how on earth did the Incans get them over there without the wheel!? Since there are so few preserved written documents from this time period, there are so many mysteries still surrounding the Incan civilization. Which leads us to (kind of heavy) life lesson numero tres:

Life is ephemeral, fragile, beautiful.  

Loads of Incans dedicated their whole life to building this incredible city, and in the end it was left for rot and forgotten until rediscovered in 1911 and presented to the world by the American, Hiram Bingham. So many of us desire to make our lives mean something important, to be remembered. We write stories, sing songs, create buildings, paint pictures, take photographs, run for political offices, have children, hoping to prove to the world we were here, look, look at what we created, look at what we did. And usually we are forgotten anyway — such if life. But maybe, just maybe, someone will discover what we were, what we did. Whether it’s just one person, or 2500 people per day like at Machu Picchu, I think that makes it all worthwhile – it serves as a reminder to give it all you’ve got, always; you never know what will become of your time on earth. The possibilities are endless!

After our guided tour, we huddled under a awning as the sky quickly relieved itself onto the sacred site. We said bye to those who were heading off to hike some more, going up the Huayna Picchu mountain, and my cousins and I headed off to explore a bit more on our own. We walked around, hung out with llamas, and admired the views. Having woken up so early, we spent just about an hour more at the site since we were pretty tired. However, noticing the clouds really clearing for a clear view over the whole site, we decided to climb back up to the higher point of the ruins to get a proper look at the whole site before leaving. We were so happy we did! We got some wicked photos, and could appreciate it as it was meant to be seen – surrounded by lush, green mountains, the river flowing far below, everything clearly visible. It was absolutely beautiful. Here’s a photo we managed to take just before the fog returned:

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Funnily enough, though, arriving at Machu Picchu, the highlight and final destination of the Inca Trail, was not necessarily the climax of the journey. It was beautiful and fascinating, as I’ve been explaining, but we had seen so many other cool ruins along the trail, that were less known, less appreciated, more out of the blue, that it made our arrival at Machu Picchu slightly less climactic than we’d expected (although still very exciting – don’t get me wrong!). I think it was a reflection of life lesson numero cuatro, one that I’ve explored before on my blog here:

It’s about the journey, not the destination.

If we had just wanted to see Machu Picchu, we could’ve done it in a day, taking the train from Cusco directly to Aguas Calientes. But, having the physical fitness and enough time to do so, we chose to take the longer route – the famous four-day trek. Our choice in itself reflects this ideology – we wanted the experience of walking along the same trail the Incans themselves used on their way to the sacred city. We felt the terrain on our feet, the altitude in our lungs, the challenge in our muscles.

It was an emotional, physical experience that I wouldn’t have traded for anything. It made our arrival at Machu Picchu that much sweeter, but also slightly less important; we had walked up and down so many stairs, we had slept in damp sleeping bags, we had used more than unpleasant latrines, we’d danced under the stars to Shakira to keep warm, and we’d gotten more excited everyday over popcorn than ever in our lives.
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Exploring ruins along the trail.

That was all worth so much more than just getting to Machu Picchu. In our day-to-day experiences, too, this is so important. It’s awesome to have goals and to work toward them, but the journey towards attaining them, working day-in and day-out to afford something we really want, for example, can be appreciated as well. There is beauty in the mundane, the simple art of life as it’s being lived day-to-day.

There’s so much more to write about the trek but this is getting pretty long, so I’m going to keep this as Part One. Make sure to subscribe to my posts so that you can get an email notification when part two is up, as well as other future posts!

For now,

L 🙂

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A llama posing for me (read, ignoring me) near the Temple of the Three Windows

Back in Bogotá!

Late Monday night, my cousins and I arrived back in Bogotá after our two-week adventure in Peru. Since then, Elena and I have been sleeping lots (11 hours last night), and Carlos is already back at the airport getting on another plane for a family trip to Seattle, where his brother lives.

It was an exhausting last few days, but exciting! Our Inca Trail trek was incredible. We started on December 7th, giddy and curious for what was to come, and ended the trek four days later at Machu Picchu after lots of rain, fog, and challenging stairs. At least that’s where it officially ended – after exploring the ruins, my cousins and I walked about 5km more down countless stairs to get to Macchu Picchu Town a.k.a. Aguas Calientes. We preferred to use the bus fare of 41 soles for a good meal instead, so down we went. We’d already walked so much anyway, what was a little more!

There’s so much to tell about the Inca Trail, and I can’t wait to share our experience. I’ll be posting soon all about it! For now, here are some photo previews:


After taking a train and a bus to get back to Cusco, we spent one more half-day there, enjoying the sunny weather and shopping for some souvenirs. We then got onto a bus to Lima for a 20-hour bus ride. For some reason it felt shorter than the 17 hour bus ride from Ica to Lima – perhaps because we slept most of the time!

We hung out in Lima for a few hours, going for a delicious last lunch at a place called Mama Olla, outdoing ourselves with a ceviche appetizer, a two-course meal, and dessert. We rolled out of the restaurant to hang out in Kennedy Park for a while, a park at the heart of Miraflores filled with cats (aww!), with wifi, and with lots of people just hanging out. There were two groups of musicians just jamming in the centre so we could enjoy both of their music. It was a relaxing way to enjoy our last few hours in Peru.

Our flight left at 9:50pm, and I slept nearly the whole way to Bogotá, where Elena’s dad, my Tio Alfredo, was waiting for us. Crawling into bed and sleeping in until 11:30 the next morning was incredible. Once I’m over this continual exhaustion, I’ll be sure to post more!

Til then,

L

On Wednesdays We Wear Hiking Boots

Tomorrow, my cousins and I head out of Cusco for the main highlight of our trip – hiking the Inca Trail! It starts at a nearby town called Ollantaytambo and ends at the famous Macchu Picchu, four days later. It’s 45km in total, and involves quite a bit of summiting and descending mountain passes, our highest point being 4215m.

Altitude sickness is a bit of a threat, but we’re prepared. We’ve felt the effects of Cusco’s 3400m altitude the few days we’ve been here, with headaches, fatigue, and heavy breathing from little exercise. But, we walked a ton today, exploring archaeological sites nearby the city, going up and down plenty of stairs, so we’re hoping we’re a bit more acclimatized! We also have some “sorroche pills”- pills for altitude sickness – that a roommate in our hostel kindly gave us since she’s going home, along with an essence called “Agua de Florida.” We’ve used the latter quite a bit for our headaches – you put the water on your hands and inhale deeply three times. It sounds a bit witch-magic-y but it’s worked for us! It has a really strong fragrant smell that clears the nostrils and takes away altitude headaches pretty quickly.

Our guide for the trek came to give us a briefing yesterday and that’s what he recommended. We’re happy we followed his advice!

On our trek we’ll be eight people, plus porters and cooks who accompany all hikers of the Inca Trail. Day One is pretty relaxed, as we take a bus to Ollantaytambo and then walk only about four hours in the day. Our second day will be the toughest, climbing up to that 4215m pass steadily for about 8-9 hours. The third day is marked on our map as “unforgettable” – we’re hoping it’s for the incredible beauty and not for incredible difficulty! Finally on day four we are meant to head out of camp at 3am to get to Macchu Picchu around 8 or 9 in the morning. Fingers crossed it won’t be too rainy and we’ll get a nice view of the sunrise! After touring Macchu Picchu we’re planning to head to the nearby town, Aguas Calientes, to enjoy a good lunch and some hot springs for our achey muscles. We’ll then head back to Cusco to spend one more day here.

Cusco so far has been really enjoyable, although quite chilly at night. We did a free walking tour and saw some cool parts of the city, went to the Inca Museum, did some Alpaca wool sweater shopping (sooo soft!), and today explored four different nearby ruin sites before having a late lunch.

We spent our evening buying the last-minute things we need for the trail, packing, and mentally preparing. We’ve heard it’s pretty hard from a number of people, but we’re CRAZY excited. I’ll be sure to write about how it goes when we get back! Til then, wish us luck. 🙂

L

From the Desert to the Mountains

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I’m sitting in the lounge area of our Cusco hostel using a public computer, huddled in a warm hoodie, leggings, and my coziest socks. Shivering and rubbing my hands together to stay warm, it’s hard to believe that just yesterday I was sitting poolside enjoying the breeze amid the 31 degree Celsius weather.

It’s a bittersweet reality. My cousins and I spent three hot, enjoyable days in the desert area of Peru, first in Paracas, and then in Huacachina, a desert oasis close to the town of Ica. Last night, we then got on a bus to take a seventeen-hour long trip to the high-altitude, much chillier Cusco. It was the longest bus I’ve ever been on, but we had fancy bed-style chairs so we could sleep more or less comfortably. The scenery was stunning as well: canyons, mountains, valleys, and even a large alpaca herd walking nearby right as we woke up. *Aww.*

It was cool to see the changing landscapes, going from the desert towards the Andes, the trees and shrub growth going from almost none, to some but dry, to green and lush. In a way the Cusco area is pretty similar to some parts of Colombia. The desert of the past few days however, although there are deserts in Colombia too, was something completely new to me and my cousins. I don’t think any of us realized just how “deserty” our stops would be. We soon realized.

Right after we got off the bus in Paracas and grabbed our bags, there were some staff there who asked us if we were interested in doing a tour to the Paracas National Reserve. It was leaving in twenty minutes so we had to think quickly. We were a bit skeptical, not sure how legitimate it was, but it seemed normal enough and the price was right so we decided to go for it. We were so glad we did! We were the only ones on the tour so we had our own personal guide, Luis. He was really passionate and knowledgable about the reserve, and he explained a lot of the science behind the unique landscape. We were blown away by the beauty and the desolation.

Luis encouraged us to reflect on what we were feeling: seeing, hearing, smelling, touching, even tasting (he got us to lick some crystals so we could discover they were salt). He gave us what sounded like a riddle – “The hotter the temperature, the colder it feels,” which we were surprised to realize was true, feeling the cool breeze. He explained it in more scientific terms; the hot and cold air pressures mix  to cause the strong wind we were feeling. I’m no scientist though, so can’t explain it much further than that!

Although we giggled at first at Luis’ hippie-esque approach, we soon found it to be meditative and humbling to open up all our senses to what we were experiencing in the moment. He made us appreciate it all the more. Afterwards, he took some funny photos of us and drove us around to other interesting spots with nice views onto the ocean.

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After the tour, we headed to our hostel to spend the rest of the day relaxing by the pool and the beach, and enjoyed a delicious ceviche and seafood rice at a nearby restaurant near the seaside boulevard.

The next morning we went on what is probably the most popular adventure in Paracas – a boat trip to the Ballestas Islands. It’s about a half hour ride to the islands, where you then spend around an hour puttering slowly around the islands to see the amazing diversity of wildlife that live there. We saw lots of sea lions, Humboldt penguins (eee!), and uncountable numbers of birds. One section of the island seemed to be black but it was only because it was completely covered with birds!

With all those birds, of course, comes lots of bird poo. This soon became evident as the pungent odour hit our nostrils. Some people were already feeling a bit sea-sick, and I’m sure that smell didn’t help at all. Interesting though is that this bird poo coming from a diet of mainly fish, called guano, is highly sought after for use as a fertilizer, as it’s very rich in certain minerals needed for plant growth. In this way, the Ballestas Islands are very important for the production of this guano, desirable for agriculture around the world. 

But enough about bird poo. As Luis had mentioned the day before, if you really think about what is going on in this part of Peru, it’s fascinating. There are penguins living within half an hour boat ride from a desert! The world never ceases to amaze me. Here are some photos from Islas Ballestas:

Another really cool thing about the Islas Ballestas tour is that the boats pass an enormous geoglyph in the sand that is known as “the candelabra.” Nobody knows who drew it there, or when, or how, or even how it has stayed intact all these years even with all the wind and waves that it is susceptible to. Some materials found in the area were carbon-dated to around 200 BC so it could be as far back as that. Or maybe it’s more recent. Aliens? Who knows. Yet another great mystery of this planet!
candelabra

That night we took a bus to Ica, and a taxi to our hostel in Huacachina. Huacachina is a really neat little place that is principally touristic. There is a small lagoon surrounded by hotels and restaurants, which is then surrounded by desert. You can walk around the whole place in about ten minutes! We went dancing at night at a resto-bar funnily called “Huaca-F**king-China,” a popular place with the locals as well as with tourists. We downed some pisco sours and headed onto the dance floor, happy to be able to sleep in the next morning.

unnamedThe main touristic draw of Huacachina, besides being the only oasis in South America, are the activities that you can do in the neighbouring desert: dune buggy tours and sandboarding. They were so fun! Some of the dunes we boarded down were really steep and launching yourself off the plateau, it kind of felt like you were offering yourself to the Incan gods, but luckily we all left in tact, giddy with the excitement. Carlos had a good taste of the sand when he wiped out on one run, and Elena was the pro of the starfish pose when going down on her belly. If you are ever in the area, definitely try it out, it’s a good laugh!

We finished off our day with a dip in the pool and then a hike up some dunes to see the sunset. We were a bit late for it, but it was a big workout to get there so we stayed a while and watched the moon get brighter and the nighttime dune buggies go by.

When it was time to leave for the bus station, we asked the guy at the front desk if he could call us a taxi. He said sure, went away from the desk, stuck his head out the main door and whistled. A taxi then showed up a few seconds later. We laughed our heads off; it gave a whole new meaning to “calling a taxi.” We then went a bit crazy in the bus station, waiting for an extra two hours due to an accident on the highway, and promptly passed out once we finally got on the bus. Seventeen hours later, here we are! We’re excited to explore Cusco tomorrow, and preparing mentally for the Inca Trail hike we will do in a few days. But first – sleep!

unnamedHave any tips on Cusco, the Inca Trail, or Macchu Picchu? We’d love to hear them. Comment here or send me a message if you do!